On the FICO scale of 300 to 850, a good credit score is generally 670 or higher, 740 and above is very good, and 800 or more is exceptional. What counts as “good enough,” though, depends on what you’re applying for — a store card, an apartment, an auto loan and a mortgage all use different thresholds. So what is a good credit score for your particular situation? The range-by-range breakdown below answers exactly that.
Credit scores are often treated like a single pass-or-fail number, but in practice each range unlocks different products, interest rates and terms. This guide breaks down every range, explains what lenders actually do with your score, shows how FICO and VantageScore compare, and explains how to move from one range to the next as efficiently as possible.
The FICO Score Ranges
| Range | Category | What It Typically Means |
|---|---|---|
| 800–850 | Exceptional | Access to the best rates and terms offered by virtually every lender |
| 740–799 | Very Good | Strong approval odds and highly competitive rates on most products |
| 670–739 | Good | Qualifies for most mainstream credit cards and loans |
| 580–669 | Fair | Approval for some products, often with higher rates or a deposit |
| 300–579 | Poor | Limited options; secured cards are usually the most realistic path |
These bands are general guides. Individual lenders set their own cutoffs, and two lenders can treat the same score differently depending on the product, your income and the rest of your credit report.
Why “Good Enough” Depends on What You’re Applying For
A score of 670 may be enough to get a standard rewards credit card, but it probably won’t earn the lowest mortgage rate, which is often reserved for scores well above 740. On a 30-year mortgage, even a modest difference in interest rate between a 680 score and a 760 score can add up to thousands of dollars over the life of the loan. For an auto loan, the gap between “fair” and “very good” can change your monthly payment noticeably.
At the other end, a secured credit card can approve applicants across nearly the entire range, including scores well below 580, because the deposit changes the issuer’s risk entirely. See our guide to how secured cards work for why that’s the case.
Landlords, insurers and some employers also look at credit, but they don’t all use the same thresholds. Many landlords are comfortable in the low-to-mid 600s, while some premium properties expect more. See our guide to the credit score needed to rent an apartment.
What Each Range Usually Unlocks
Poor (300–579). Mainstream unsecured cards and most loans will likely be declined. Secured cards, credit-builder loans and some subprime products are available. The priority is rebuilding: correct errors, open a secured card and pay everything on time. See our guide to secured cards for a 500 score.
Fair (580–669). Some unsecured cards become available, especially starter cards, but often with low limits and higher rates. Auto loans are possible at higher rates. This is where many people rebuilding credit find themselves after a year of consistent habits.
Good (670–739). Most mainstream cards and loans are within reach. Rates are reasonable, though not the best available. This is the range where the average American consumer tends to sit.
Very Good (740–799). Premium rewards cards, favorable auto rates and competitive mortgage offers become typical. Many lenders treat this range almost the same as exceptional.
Exceptional (800–850). The best terms available. The practical benefit over the upper 700s is usually small, which is why chasing a perfect 850 isn’t worth much effort.
FICO vs. VantageScore Ranges
VantageScore also uses a 300–850 scale, but it weighs some factors differently and uses slightly different category labels and cutoffs. Many free score apps show VantageScore, while many lenders — especially mortgage lenders — use FICO. It’s normal to see a modest difference between the two at the same time. That doesn’t mean either is wrong; they’re simply different models reading the same underlying data. See our full FICO vs. VantageScore comparison.
What Determines Which Range You’re In
Your score is built from five main factors: payment history, credit utilization, length of credit history, credit mix and new credit. Payment history and utilization together make up roughly two-thirds of a FICO score, which is why they matter most when you want to move up a range. See our breakdown of the five factors for how each one works.
Notably, income, savings, employment and age are not part of your credit score. A high earner with no credit accounts can have no score at all, while a student with one well-managed card can have a good one.
How to Move Up a Range
- Pay every bill on time. Set up autopay for at least the minimum on every account.
- Lower your utilization. Keep reported balances under 30% of limits, and ideally under 10%. See our utilization guide.
- Fix report errors. Disputing inaccurate negative items can produce quick gains. See our guide to disputing errors.
- Keep old accounts open. Your average account age benefits from time.
- Space out new applications. Multiple hard inquiries in a short period can pull a score down temporarily.
If You’re Starting From Poor or No Credit
If you’re in the poor range or have no score at all, the path forward is the same regardless of the exact number: open a reporting account, keep utilization low and pay on time every month. A secured card is usually the most accessible first step — see our comparison of the best secured cards. We also have situation-specific guides for students, immigrants new to the U.S. and people rebuilding after bankruptcy.
How Long It Takes to Move Between Ranges
There’s no fixed timeline, but some patterns are common. Utilization improvements can show up within one or two billing cycles. Building from no credit to a first score typically takes three to six months. Moving from poor to fair with consistent habits often takes six to twelve months, and moving from fair to good can take another year, depending on what caused the lower score. Negative marks such as late payments lose weight gradually and fall off after about seven years.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is 700 a good credit score?
Yes. A 700 falls within the good range and qualifies you for most mainstream credit products, though the best rates usually go to scores in the very good range and above.
Can I get approved for anything with a score under 580?
Yes. Secured credit cards and credit-builder loans are widely available at low scores because the lender’s risk is covered by your deposit or savings.
Does everyone have both a FICO Score and a VantageScore?
Most people with credit history have scores under both models, though the numbers can differ slightly.
Why is my score different in different apps?
Apps may use different scoring models, different versions of those models, or data from different bureaus. Focus on the trend over time rather than the exact number.
Is it worth trying to reach 850?
Rarely. Most lenders offer their best terms somewhere in the upper 700s, so the practical benefit of going higher is small.
Real-World Examples of What a Score Changes
Numbers become clearer with examples. Consider three people applying for the same things. The first has a 590 score after a rough patch with late payments. She’s likely to be approved for a secured card and a credit-builder loan, may qualify for an auto loan at a noticeably higher interest rate, and may be asked for a larger security deposit by a landlord. The second has a 690 score built over a few years. He qualifies for most mainstream credit cards, gets reasonable auto loan terms and usually passes apartment screenings without extra conditions. The third has a 770 score with a long, clean history. She can choose among premium rewards cards, receives the most competitive loan offers and typically qualifies for the best mortgage pricing tiers.
None of these people earns more or less because of their score — the difference is purely in how lenders price the risk of lending to them. That’s why moving up even one range can save real money over years of borrowing.
Why Your Score Changes From Month to Month
Scores aren’t static. Every time a lender reports new information — a new balance, a payment, a new account or an inquiry — your score can be recalculated. Month-to-month swings of a few points are normal and usually reflect small changes in reported balances. What matters is the direction of the trend over six to twelve months. If you’re making on-time payments and keeping balances low, the trend should be upward even when an individual month dips slightly.
To track that trend reliably, check the same score from the same source each month rather than comparing numbers from different apps, which may use different models or bureaus.
What Is a Good Credit Score for Your Specific Goal?
The honest answer changes with the product. What is a good credit score for a secured card is irrelevant, since none is required; for an apartment it is roughly 620, for a competitive mortgage rate closer to 760. Aim at the threshold your next goal requires rather than at a round number.
Sources and Further Reading
- CFPB: How Do I Get and Keep a Good Credit Score?
- myFICO: What Is in Your Credit Score
- CFPB: Credit Report vs. Credit Score
This article is for general educational purposes and isn’t financial advice. Scoring ranges and lender thresholds vary and can change. See our Advertising Disclosure for how this site is compensated.